Cabo Pulmo back to La Paz Jan 27th. Another crazy riding adventure



Nice smooth sandy roads


Thursday morning after going for an incredible 2 hour snorkel on the corral reef, I decided as I had completely not planned to, head it for La Paz for a comfy night in a motel and to be able to do some stuff in town before catching the ferry to Topolabampo at 3pm the next day. So I packed up and was ready to go by about 1. I decided to follow the coastal road instead of the main highway I used to get here from La Paz. My National Geographic "adventure" map showed what I thought looked like a  pretty good coastal road. The ride initially was breathtakingly beautiful, the riding was fun on smooth sandy roads, not too deep, the bike just floated underneath me all I had to do was make small corrections and let the bike do what it wanted. I was in heaven realizing this was my last day riding on off road  "secondary" trails. Oh but how quickly can things go wrong!



Only 10 km through those mountains as per my map as the crow flies , no problem except it turned out it was about 40K following the curvy mountain road.




All happy not knowing what's ahead. I was in heaven, "what a great idea to have this last fling off the main road, I'm such a good rider, this stuffs getting easy!" I think!!!!! Pretty smug looking.




So driving up into the mountains the nice smooth road slowly got worse and worse. I kept pushing forward because I thought it must get better soon, it didn't, it just got worse and worse until I hit a steep, rutty, pot holes everywhere section and boom on my rear end again, erghhhgrgh!!!!!!!! I waited for about 15 minutes for somebody to come by (I did not see a single light anywhere for the next 3 hours or so) and help me lift my monster (it takes about an hour to do it myself) Nobody. Off with all the luggage, get the bike up, pulled my back out, unladen I still could not get the bike to the top of the hill, back wheel just spun whether or not I was on or off the bike. Trail is too narrow to turn it around so I slipped it backwards brakes on, sliding down to the bottom of the hill about 50 feet and then was able to get a good enough run up at the hill to the top. Then drag all me gear to the top and re pack the bike. Feeling a little hungry now.




 


There's the top of the hill. I've got myself into this position and now that I don't know whether to go back or go forward. If I go back I will have to camp at the side of the road which I don't want to, if I can get through the mountains a nice warm hotel room awaits me. I think at this time it can't be very far to cross so I push on. The road just went higher and higher and got worse and worse. It ended up a single track trail that followed the cliff edge, I've really got myself into the proverbial. There was not a single light in any of the valleys. I felt very alone. No problems with banditos just problems avec moi! My HID head lights thank god worked great (I angled the whole pod down and used both beams of course so the road ahead was like day time for about 30 - 40 feet which at 5 kms hour is ok) because now it was pitch I mean pitch black, no moon. The trail had really steep sections going up that ended up with a corner at the top so you had to have enough speed to get up but no too much speed for the corner. The trail had huge boulders and steep downhill technical declines, It was really really tough. At one point I thought I will camp but there was nowhere to camp, I would have to pitch my tent in the middle of the trail on top off rocks and boulders on a incline because it was cliff on the one side and a big drop off on the other side. Crazy. It took everything I knew to get through this, I could not make a mistake, I honestly drew on my motorcycle racing, downhill biking and my martial arts experiences, all played a vital part in getting through this little nightmare. It's funny though because at a base level I was having a lot of fun?????Nothing like a challenge I guess

After two hours of intense concentration I saw lights of a town. Coming down the mountain the trail slowly turned back into a road of sorts. Keeping my concentration and being vigilant not to let my guard down suddenly I was engulfed in bright spot lights that completely out shone my HID head lights. A surprise military check point. Surrounded by soldiers I told them (in Spanish) I came from Cabo Pulmo, through the mountain pass and was on my way to La Paz. They all started smiling when they realized I came through the mountains and kept asking me if I came through the mountain pass. Once they actually believed me that I did they all started laughing! Even the "interrogator" smiled although he was trying to maintain a serious demeanor.

I reached the highway, back onto sweet sweet pavement, this kind of riding really makes you appreciate pavement even if it's straight! I felt absolutely elated, I made it! At about 30mph completely naturally I stood up on the pegs my hands came off the handle bars and raised high in the air, I yelled in joy as if I had just won a world championship!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Then I thought better sit down quick before my joy is ended by a pothole!!!!!!!!!

Two hours later I was checked into a good motel and sitting down at my favorite restaurant in La Paz eating assada and drinking Pacifico beer, hmmm happiness.



23rd Jan La Paz to Cabo Pulmo

 The ride to Cabo Pulmo National State Marine park was easy, at the Tropic of Cancer sign I stopped and it was the strangest thing, on the north side it was freezing cold (as seen in this picture).



But on the southern side of the sign, you are now in the tropics and it was uncomfortably hot! Honest. 



I spent three whole glorious days on this beach (Los Abollitos I think), There was an English couple also (we made a feast one night that was delicious) and that was it, no one else, luvely. No toilets, no water, nada, Paul would have loved it, just like Algonquin park but just a little different. During the day I raced around some great roads on my unladen bike, yee ha (Steve would have loved that). I snorkeled on amazing corral reefs right off shore literally 10 feet from the beach off the RHS of the beach, saw a 3' turtle which was nice to see because they are having a tough time surviving man apparently. Tons off cool fish that seem to come up to you to check you out. Had great walks along the shore/cliff line and of course read, slept and sun bathed. I was so happy I made the decision to do this rather than rush back up the Peninsular.



This guy thought my orange tent was the mother ship, it would not stop trying to get in. I got this great pic of it on a desert flower.



Really amazing rock formations, I have lots of volcanic origin rocks for April from this beach.




Time at La Paz Sat/Sun Jan 22/23

My plan is to cross over to mainland Mexico from La Paz but the "immigration" office is closed till Monday so I decided to stay in La Paz and relax a few days. I want to spend the last of my time in South Baja on a beach, if I continue round the peninsula and back up I won't have time for the beach. I figure catching the ferry to Popalabampa on the main land (say that 100 times fast, the locals pronounce in some strange tongue, not Spanish, that only they can understand) will give me two extra days for the beach.
It's a very funny thing, you literally just drive into Baja, through a border crossing, the officials don't stop you and ask any questions, you just drive through, you have to stop and pictures are taken only. But going to the mainland is completely different, passports, temporary vehicle importation documents, tourist card document etc. It's a pain in the you no what and very time consuming going to one office for this, one office for that, paying at a bank returning with receipts, lining up at counters and waiting for it all to be processed, it's almost not worth it. It's like Europe in the 70's, worse. But once I got started I figured I may as well go through with it all. Beaches are a powerful motivator, yes.

Anyway had a very relaxing weekend stayed  at a nice clean, quite and secure motel. I just walked a lot (the walking reminded me of my Europe trip in the 70's and Buenos Aires trips with April. Watched life go by, read etc etc and ate great assada and tortillas of course. Good time.



I watched some guys skatecrashing I think it's called, Looked painful, I don't know why people do this sort of crazy sport!  I think I'll stick to motorcycles and D/Hill bikes, much safer.



Bahia Conception a La Paz

January 21st. Got up early (despite the previous night with Ed and Sandra) and watched the sun come up. I have become used to packing and people coming up and chatting. At the beginning I got upset because I was in a rush to get going but now I like it very much, chatting with all kinds of different people. So now I plan two to three hours to pack up camp. After chatting and saying goodbye to Ed I got going at my new record of 10:30. I filled up both tanks so I could make it to La Paz without stopping for gas. The beginning of the ride was through mountains, spectacular views and really twisty flowing corners with the occasional hairpin turn, great I loved it, wished I was on a sport bike (sorry no pics vid only). Stopped at a pretty town called Loretto for lunch, met some friendly bikers riding Baja, pretty cool mix of bikes, Beemers, Triumph, Japanese I think anyway nice to see other bikes.  The rest of the ride was straight and boring,  By the time I got to La paz it was night and my bottom (aka bum) was killing me. Gotta do something about this seat before the long days in the saddle heading back up to Phoenix

Beautiful mountain scenery from Bahia to La Paz



La Paz Malicon (pedestrian walk) Tourists and locals alike stroll down the Malicon enjoying the sunshine, kids play, families relax, teens eye each other up and there is generally a friendly relaxed atmosphere. There´s some sort of religious parade going on in the background. 



Sunset at La Paz from the Malicon



San Ignacio to Mulage and Bahia Conception

After leaving beautiful San Ignacio the road travels back into the desert back to the Sea of Cortez. Most of Baja is desert with oasis areas´s. I´m afraid this portion is rather boring, no whales, no crashes, no disasters. I stopped at a town called Santa Rosalia which is kinda cool because its actually an old mining town the French built so the architecture is not Spanish/Mexican but French has a completely different feel. Unfortunately I thought the bread wasn´t any better but to be fair I only ate one kind of bun from the "French"  boulangerie. Sorry no pics maybe latter. It was a very busy and bustling town.


                                                    I know lets have Mexican for lunch!

Arrived in Mulage and met these two girls from somewhere in France near Belgium, they are "couch surfing" or "coach surfing" as they called it. Amazing they don't pay for accommodation they ask if they can stay on peoples "couches"via the web site and in return they are listed on the web site for people to stay with them. They are traveling I think they said for 3 months. 



Mulege is a very pretty sea side fishing town (about half way down the peninsula on the east coast) that was devastated by a direct hit from a hurricane two years ago. You could see evidence of it everywhere but  also it`s amazing how quickly the town is recovering. Apparently the water was over the top of the trees in the picture and you could see the hurricane circling overhead.

               I know what I fancy lets have Mexican food for supper! (this is camerones tacos hmmm)

At Mulage I realized I am running out of time, It's funny a month in the saddle sounds like a lot of time but it´s really not. I thought I must keep the hammer down to complete my loosely planned trip which was to go around Baja, get to the  bottom and come up the other side (west side). But after some soul searching I thought what do I really want to do, I know I dint want to rush, I know I dont like sitting in the saddle on a boring road all day long (if it´s straight I hate it) and really don't care if I see another mission, I do know I love camping being on the beach, swimming, meeting people and chatting, I love to ride my bike unladen off road also I want to kayak on Conception Bay and I want to  spend a little time in La Paz ( big town in south Baja East coast plus I want to snorkel at Punta Pulmo which has fabulous  reefs that are accessible from shore and great camping. It´s funny I felt compelled to "complete the journey" I don't know why. But I have decided not to, I am going to fail on this great journey of circumnavigating the Baja Peninsular! I have decided instead to enjoy the last week and half and do what I love. Tough decision!!!!! thank god I figured it out. 



Just thought every one would like to see another picture of my bike! ha ha.What a beaut. That belly pan has done it´s job over and over, I´m sure a rock would have gone through the cases by now. I met a guy who had to abandon a similar adventure as mine in Baja on his Kawasaki KLR650 because of a rock that went through the engine cases draining all the oil, he said it happened of course in the middle of nowhere. So far other than a few scratches the only thing that needs replacing is the front rim.



Everywhere you go you all ways end up with a buddy while you are wherever in Mexico, helps with me missing my hounds.



So off to Conception bay it is to meet new friends, snorkel, kayaking, and go clamming!



We are feeling OK, my new buddy(s) Edwardo and Sandra who after I had an exciting day kayaking and clamming I made a clam nosh they called Chris K nosh. It was OK they liked it (or so they say) and I ate it. Sandra also cooked up some sea bass which was excellent. Eat drink and be merry! Ed is a old Californian fisherman who now lives on the beach in his palapa (he said when he was a kid he wanted to live like Robinson Crusoe) well guess what. He and Sandra are awesome if you are there at playa burro look them up, say Chris the crazy Canadian sent you! Later we went for a midnight cruise in his panga boat, I know we shouldn't have but Ed got very serious used all the electronics and "captained" the boat very expertly.



"Edwardo and Sandra" business partners, hmmm Sandra has a very gouchi palapa house down the beach. Sometimes you get really good info travelling,  Sandra suggested to take the ferry over to mainland from La Paz and then it`s a straight boring hi-way back up to the border but will save me I think two days driving. This gives me more time doing what I want to, great.



Captain Edwardos, Robinson Crusoe's Palapa



Bahia de L.A. to San Ignacio

                 Well actually Guerrero Negro, what a day! This was just the beginning. I stopped, pulled of the highway to take a pic, no problems when driving away all felt fine except I wasn't going forward I was going down! the bike is resting on it's belly pan.



BAD TIMES!



Bahia de Los Angeles really doesn't want me to leave. Off with all the bags, get out the trusty C.T.C camping shovel and start digging, made a ramp out but when I tried to ride it up it just got worse even deeper. Oh $&%*^. So I came up with idea to push the bike on it's side (It's used to it now) The back wheel popped out and left a huge hole. I filled the hole with rocks, embedded rocks in a straight line back up to the road and picked up the bike, good to go, just as I was about to try two trucks stopped full of construction workers, these guys (Mexican specifically) always stop to help. And poof we're back on the road, hand shakes big smiles off they go. Re pack the bike second time today and off I go.



My reaction.



Where's a Harley when you need it

So I stopped at Guerro Negro for a late lunch and pick up supplies all's great when I'm about 20k out of Gurrero Negro when I come across this guy up to his running boards off the road, (you can see the tracks). I stopped to help, a pick up truck stops, we try pulling out no luck, P/U truck leaves to get thicker rope, trusty shovel comes out again, a bunch of other guys stop, party atmosphere, there's kids, moms, and guys, everyone thinks this is jolly good fun except me and the mums. Another guy stops and gets stuck too, absolutely hilarious, he, they, don't give two hoots it's all just a party. At about this time I notice I have a flat front tire (Flat B strikes again) oh for frickings sake, the guy who got his truck stuck (second one) says to me "don't worry we help". Pick up truck arrives back but the thicker rope he brought just snaps also. A 4x4 truck stops with chain (now the party's really starting) I dig out a channel with my trusty shovel (I don't why these guys don't carry shovels and tow rope) and hook up the 4x4 and we're back on the road.

These guys wont have me working at the side of the road as the suns going down and without much input or protest from me they load my bike and all my stuff which is now just lying around on the side of the road off my bike and off we go back to Guerro Negro 20 k. I hate going backwards but we end up at a Pemex Gas station with bright Lights. I ride the back of the pick up straddling my bike doing about a 100 + K thinking I too old for this, I must be fricking nuts, ah maybe I am!

After a few cervesa's and chips provided by the guy 2nd from right the front tires repaired, most of the people at the fiesta had left by this time, this is the last group standing of partyista's. I gave the guy with the transport pick up truck $10. for gas. Lots of invites and istruction to go to a club for more beers but I'm done, closest motel for this kid. The party is over.

Scum Bucket Motel Two. It's in a sleazy area so I brought the bike inside. The people running the motel I don't think had had a customer for a while, they seemed a little surprised at the sight of me but once they got over their shock they were really nice. They brought me two carne (god knows what meat) sandwiches and two (more) beers, the sandwiches were delicious I was starving and I settled into a pleasant evening watching very good boxing which is huge here. For some reason the Mexican participant always won?

Next day arrive at the oasis town of San Ignacio, beautiful with a traditional colonial centre square

The church at the end of the square, Mision de San Ignacio.



Next day, the view from my room, this was the first purpose built possada inn in San Ignacio, walled garden with the rooms built inside the walls all facing the garden.. The dogs were very nice but the black one was always too busy for me. The owner was sitting with a friend (cant really see her in this pic) signing Mexican folk songs, very pretty woke me up from a nap.


Next day I ride to Laguna San Ignacio to go whale watching. The eco tour sales girl said that there was no group going by organized vehicle but there was a group driving on there own to the Laguna. I said fine I'll ride there. She would not take my money, said if you get there pay then, ha a challenge. About half way there I saw a truck (2 wheel drive SUV) being pulled out by a tow truck. The road was ok really fun riding but this area was a sand trap about 100 metres long and deep, no choice had to go through or go back, got my weight as far back as possible (ass over the back carrier) and just gave er in first, I got through it but I guess they didn't continue because I was the only person on the boat!



Hey where's the whales!



Oh here's one, you can see his/her mouth and eye, the whale is on it's side and I am stroking and scratching the side of it's "chin" WOW



All of a sudden I felt somebody was looking at me, we looked at each other for maybe 30 seconds just like this, the whale was looking right at me eye to eye about three feet away! Unbelievable Muy Suerte, very lucky the captain said first whale to come up to a boat this year and it happened twice.

After this the whale "flipped" upside down under the boat, I could see the pectoral fins in front of the boat and the underside  of the chin and the whale scratched it's belly on the underside of the boat for a minute or so. The boat was rocking side to side ( this was a 20 to 30 ton 12 to 15 metre whale) it was rocking the boat about like a cork, the captain was going back and forth from gunnel to gunnel to try to "balance" the boat, I joined him and he didn't stop me!

This was one of the most amazing experiences of my life.



Bahia de la los Angeles, the stay.

I stayed an extra night in B L A because I was invited to dinner with Antonio owner of Campo Archelon (Archelon is a pre historic turtle I believe correct me please Antonio if I'm wrong) He runs the camp sight and used to run a turtle research station next to the camp, very cool guy. In the mid 90's two of his loggerheads bred in tanks when released made it to Japan which probably proves something Judith? The dinner was mostly Brit Canadians, Germain Canadians, Canadians and of course Antonio and his son Antonio (the 5th?). I ate fish no problem sea bass, was good! Lots of wine and deep deep discussions about life the universe and everything! April would have loved it.

By chance I met Mauro Rossini a Italian who traveled by motorcycle in the 70's and 90's with support vehicles and doing product testing across China and the America's and other places for months. We chatted for hours, one hilarious story he told me was his riding jacket and pants he was testing were soft and supple when warm and increased their insulation property's when it got cold. He said it worked great but...............it quadrupled it's size and became stiff and brittle when below freezing, so much so it was almost impossible to get off the bike and if you could you walked like a robot and had to point at things with a straight arm. I saw the pictures in bike mags, he looked like an American football player with shoulder pads, I was killing myself with laughter. He met Rene Cormier who I have met and read his proverbial book (a Canadian who spent 3 years ridding around the world on a 650 BMW and is a strong influence on me doing this trip) on the same beach I am staying at. As it turns out everybody on this beach knows Rene. I think Mauro found this place on one of his adventures, fell in love with it and stayed, he is married to a lovely American gal called Patty and has two children.

I spent 4 lazy days at B L A and was starting to get too comfortable, "last time we had a biker here he stayed for two months" and comments like that. This place would be wind surfing heaven for intermediate to advanced level. Every morning the thermal side on shore wind blows up at 15 to 25 knots like clockwork, it goes from dead calm and you can literally see the white caps coming across the bay at about 10am and dies down in the evening.

Driving through the town people starting to wave, time to get out!

Ah, this is the life!!!

Mauro Rossini tries out my bike Mexican style.

Mision San Fransisco Borja. It's 17th century Jesuit mission, very cool but I have to admit the ride there 50k of unpaved desert road on my unladen bike was awesome, brp brp brp!!! I had to keep reminding myself you're by yourself slow down!"

Sun  rise every morning at Bahia de Los Angeles, camping I became an early riser.

The mountains are very colourful like in Argentina.

San Felipe to Papa Fernandez (Gonzaga Bay) and onto Bahia de Los Angeles

These two days are Jan 8th (happy birthday Chris7 nobody called me on my new cell phone! not even my brother) to January 10th. I missed when I was blogging. I am back in Ottawa so I have added it here (and changed the title). As you read down what I originally wrote is right at the bottom of this blog.

The morning I left San Felipe I met these two riding there pedal bikes. They were camping mainly but having the odd rest at motels. As far as I remember they started at Washington State somewhere, and rode down the west coast U.S. They left in the fall/2010 and have to back at University May 2011. They are planning to go down into Central America. For some reason they looked very fit! I hope they are OK, some of the sand I experienced on the same roads they will be traveling on were hard for me but at least I had 80HP at the back wheel! One feels a little humbled when you meet folks like these two.

After leaving my new Mexican adventure friends (who headed back up to Mexicali after safely depositing me in this motel) I spent a day in San Felipe, bought a cell phone (safety first) and rested up a bit after the Laguna Salada crossing. By coincidence I am following the same route as the Baja 1000. The road to Bahia de Gonzaga was great, after leaving the blacktop it became quite challenging off road but not crazy impossible, just fun. It was very desolate and with the help of my "adventure" GPS map I was quite happy to arrive at my destination of "Papa Fernandez" as the sun was going down. It's an old fly in fishing camp. The road there is being paved now so the old off road track will be a memory soon, kind of a shame for people like me but good for tourism I guess. There were lots of photos in the restaurant of famous actors who used to fly in and go fishing with "Papa Fernandez".  The restaurant was closed until you arrived and somebody would come over and open up for you,  the food was great.



One of the pictures in the restaurant, Papa Fernandez with John Wayne circa 1972

                                      

My Beach!
Very strong off shore wind, the tent is anchored to my bike, but the wind did a 180 turn during the night and blew very strongly onshore! so at about 3am I thought the tent was going to take off.  I  got out of my warm sleeping bag and attached the tent to the front of the pole structure. Next day I spent the whole day just relaxing, reading,swimming etc on my beach, what bliss.



Inside of the restaurant at Papa Fernandez.



These fishing Trawlers were in the bay the whole time I was there day and night. I counted 15 of them at one time. Sometimes I could hear people and radios from my camp site.



Hey This is my Beach!
These two from Germany (Britta and Juergen waving goodbye) ship there Toyota Land Cruiser from Europe to where they go "adventure touring" every year (good idea eh? Michael and Judith!) then travel/live in it. It has a cool pop up camper feature. They were very nice and were heading to central America then back up the east coast America to ship back to Germany.



After leaving Papa Fernandez I travelled to Bahia de Los Angeles on very good roads like this 



Except for the odd bike eating pot hole like this one (3' deep x 3' wide).  Rule #1 in Baja never let you guard down driving!



You just have to stop at Coco's Corner. ...........This is Coco who lost his legs below the knee in a horrible industrial accident and now has a business where you can camp and he will cook you up some taco's if you ask. It is very neat and tidy with lots of memorabilia everywhere. He gets around on this 4 wheeler or on his stumps. It is a favorite Baja 1000 stop over apparently. I think there's a lesson here somewhere.

 Bahia de Los Angeles took about another two three hours after this stop.



This was written while I was camping at Camp Archelon Bahia de Los Angeles.

Hi All, I am writing this on the worlds slowest computer and a Spanish key board to boot, It feels like a type writer (break). Very very painful, but I guess as this town didn´t get electricity until three years ago I should not complain. I will update properly when I have access to a good computer. But for now I am safe, continuing the adventure, meeting all kinds of cool people and loving it, having the time of my life. I was told by a 60 year old American lady who travels here in her 4x4 by herself with her dog for two months every year over the last 10 yrs that it is statistically 25 times more likely to be robbed in the U.S. and 20 more likely to be killed in the U.S than here, so be safe and travel to Baja!. I have to say that everyone I have met has been super friendly and people who travel here on a regular basis agree it is pretty safe here using lots of common sense.
I have been following the Baja 1000 route. My bike has many scratches now, definitely not new anymore! I have lost count of crash%&/()==?¿es. I really should use Aprils 650 next time!

Tchau for now.

PS Thanks for all the letters.

Down Laguna Salada to San Filipe

                   New friends and support crew                                         Cocinaro extraordinaire Victor Mari.

These guys were amazing. They came bursting into my life at Canon de Guadelupe and became my friends and support crew to cross the Laguna Salada  ( I needed them!) down to the bottom (south) where we hooked up with hwy 5 to San Felipe. We hung out, camped, ate Victor Mari (cook second from left) fine asado bbq food for days.  There is no way I could have done it on my own. Apparently only a handful on people have ever done it!? I entrusted completely in our confident jeep driver Arturo (leaning against door) who had done it before 3 years ago. There were 3 choices to go.  I said to Arturo you choose I trust your judgment. He took 24 hrs before choosing this route Initially he emphatically said no way. I was very happy when he said we will go on this route because I really wanted to go this way but would not do it on my own. I have an adventure map and a adventure GPS chip that shows roads, secondary roads, tracks and even horse/hiking trails but nothing for this (100km + -) route, both are completely  blank. They were actually supposed to go back to Mexicali but decided to join me in my adventure for a few days. I would not have tried by myself having crashed once already (I'm getting smarter hopefully). and know it could spell disaster. The purpose for them being there was Fransisco Lopez (left in picture), who a owns a lot of land in the Laguna Salada, was taking GPS points.  We had another wonderful asada at Francisco´s old abandoned town. His father started a community there that was a co-op growing grapes and alfalfa. There were old buildings, grape arbours etc still there abandoned 30 yrs ago. Apparently it failed because of infighting not economics. About 50 families lived there once upon a time.

After we set off, at the beginning we had to drive through deep deep sand. It was horrible. The fastest I could go was about 5 to 10Km/hr. I thought I can't do this, this is just stupid. I crashed twice more. I was so pissed off. If you do the math it's going to take along time and it gets very cold at night not to mention you really don't want to be camping because it's dangerous at night. I thought to hell with this I'm going back over to the hard surface back north to Mexicali (about 50 - 70K) take about two hours once I get out of this fricking sand then onto the wonderful paved hwy. But then I would have three hour drive down the hwy to get to San Filipe. I kept going (it's lots easier lifting the bike up with 5 guys!) The sand ended after a couple of miles thank God. We filled up with water at a well in the middle of the desert! Some government project growing some seedlings of some sort. After the water fill up all I had to contend with was the occasional sand trap a.k.a definite crash zone (like a golfing sand trap), deep ruts in the hard desert surface that would throw you on your proverbial *^% if you hit them at any sort of speed, and mud, great! We managed to  keep our speed from 20 to 40 K/hr requiring intense concentration. This was the most challenging riding I have ever done including racing, I was determined not to fall of again it sucks. The last part of the off road got dark, the sun set was beautiful behind the distant mountains but I could not look at it while moving. I had to concentrate so fully on what's in front I could not even look at the tachometer or speedo. The h.i.d head lights work really well except they take time to charge up. Once we finally got to the highway it was like heaven, so smooth and velvety! In celebration I ran my bike hard through the gears to about 130K AHHH Luvly!!!!!!!!!

We went through a military check point, they had a look in some of  my bags, lots of soldiers looking very tough with aka's, I turned off my helmet cam as we approached not wanting to upset them with the recording light flashing away. Then an hour or so after that, we were all drinking beer on the malecon (board walk promenade) lots of saludos and merriment. It really felt special, what an accomplishment for all off us, they were pretty chuffed with themselves, hand shakes all around. Look out world here I come.

                                                     Free camping and oh yes of course assada

We went to visit these cactus, this one is about 1500 yrs old. I couldn't face anymore sand so we Jeeped it

                                                                  The crazy loco Jeep driver

                    The lads,  after feeding and looking after me for days, I thought a thank you was in order.
L to R.  Me, Arturo, Mi amigo Hose Carmen, Francisco Lopez, and cocinaro extraordinaire Victor Mari.

               I need a rest, shower, bed, One day for buying groceries, a Movie star phone for emergencies and bike maintenance, Notice the anti theft decals covering the BMW badges, (thanks Francisco)
                             

                                San Felipe is and old fishing town but now caters more to tourists.

The Malecon at San Felipe at night.