La Paz Baja To Snowy old Ottawa Jan 28th to Feb 2nd

Well, unfortunately this is my last post for this odyssey, (ha I have spell check now!). I am at home now and feel slightly guilty for doing this trip being back in my reality, all the horrendous news from across the world. Oh well as an old business guy and friend said to me you cant fix the fing world but sometimes you can help a little. It's great to be home though with my family though (except for Steve, Noami and Hopers Hoo who live in Washington D.C.)

Going to Mainland Mexico as I said is completely different to Baja. The Mexican authorities don't care at all when you go into Baja. But after going through 1960's style customs at the ferry terminal I was pretty stressed out by time I got on the ferry! Riding crazy mountain trails at night, bandito's and thieves (which I never encountered even once), or pot holes that suddenly appear on "good" roads don't kill you, bureaucracy in Mexico will.

I got on the ferry and saw all the motorcycles carefully lashed down. I thought that's good they tie the bikes securely. Told a ferry worker that my bike was ready to be tied down and he told me they dont do it, ahh! So I used the ratcheting straps I used to strap my luggage on with, worked great.



Bye Bye Baja, gonna miss you.

I met up with a group of motorcyclists on the ferry. I was trying desperately to avoid them and being rather aloof (because of wanting to be alone) but luckily for me I finally I heard "so do you have a bike to go along with all that riding equipment" or something like that. They were a group of I believe originally 9 friends who rode Baja. There was 5 of the group heading back on the ferry, I guess the others had a different plan. They turned out to be a very cool group of guys much to my surprise! I'm afraid I didn't take a group pic of them and their bikes but I have a few individual pics I took later on in this blog. Apparently Topolabampa can be quite a dangerous port town on the mainland and they were being very careful to go to a safe hotel. Being the safety conscious individual I am I thought prudent to tag along. In the morning they were on a mission to get back to Phoenix Arizona (actually to be exact, Chandler which was my final US destination also), I wasn't on a mission, I had lots of time. My biggest concern was my arse was killing me. You would think (and I say this because this is not a BMW sponsored trip) that one would think a "touring bike" would come stock with a relatively comfy seat, but of course, no!  silly me what was I thinking. So a little trick I discovered on a bicycle trip in Nova Scotia with April was using shoe insoles duct taped to the seat, gel works best but I could not find gel at the store so I used these foam ones.



Necessity is the mother of invention.

The road up the border is just like any 4 lane we in Canada or the States are familiar with, accept for a few differences. Often you see cattle being grazed in the middle of the four lanes,  herded by Caborellos on horse back. Cattle men in full "cowboy" outfits, hats and boots etc, working to keep the cattle off the highway as you zoom by at 120K. Sometimes there would be traffic direction arrows painted in the lane you were on pointing in the completely opposite direction, I guess left over from previous construction, not to mention the occasional random 10, 20, or 40 km/h speed signs. You just kind of get used to this sort of  intelligence tests as  you ride along. 



No Messing around, To keep your speed down (and it also keeps you alert), these seemingly random speed bumps slow you right down and provide a great place for locals to sell there goods. This was my last day travelling and I loved it now my bum had it's new luxo seat.



After changing my Pesos back into dollars and handing in my vehicle temporary import documents I kept 100 pesos for lunch and headed into the border town of Nogales just before the border.  I was hungry and really wanted authentic food. However I thought  I've not been sick once, so far so good,  maybe I should play it safe and go to the McDonalds across the street. After sitting there looking at the McD's and this taco open air stand I thought to hell with it, taco's it is. Am I ever glad I did. This is Isabella the cocinara who made me three amazing carne tacos. She cooked the beef al la carbon (bbq) the tortillas she made were cooked fresh at home in the morning. The Tacos were absolutely delicious. We had a conversation in Spanish that I actually knew the appropriate verbs and had enough words to communicate with her (about family of course). After I successfully communicated  my thoughts in Spanish I stood there a little shocked with my performance and said ?es correcto? she said si! There's hope for my Spanish, I have to keep at it. The three tacos were 50 peso. I gave here my last 100 pesos because I knew my next stop would be a delightful conversation with a US border guard. Isabella was very happy with the extra 50 pesos (about $4.00).

The horrible poverty and shanty towns I saw close to the border are miserable, You drive through a huge fenced corridor between the road approaching the border and these shanty dwellings. I found it very sad and it moved me to see this stark difference between  the have's and the have nots.  It really brought it home to me how wealthy or fortunate we are in the west, we have so much opportunity and these people have so little.

                                                               Anyway back on subject

One of my new friends Bob Invited me to stay at his place on the Earnhardt Ranch.  His place is on RHS of this building. Notice the "horns" on the other building behind. It was great to have a place to call home my last few days arranging shipping, flight details, and crating up the bike etc. Bob is a really nice guy and we got on well together. His business card says "motorcyclist" Gotta love that.

                             Bob keeps fit, works out, eats well, and here he is off on a bicycle ride.



The name say's it all.



And here he is "Tex" Earnhardt himself. Tex is a larger than life indervidual who at 80 rides Baja, still works full time at running his five beautiful car dealerships and ranches. And probably a bunch of other things too I don't know about. I unfortunately did not get to know Tex better, I hope some other time to do so. He has lived in his house in the background since 1951, quite an individual.



This is Bruce (one of the group of riders I met on the ferry) who was kind enough to show me his collection of various motorcycles,  cars,  (including a full factory spec WRX Subaru rally race car that he campaigns) and his new plane shown here. Bruce has raced open wheel race cars in Europe, raced planes, used to be on "Team Obsolete" racing motorcycles with Dave Roper, I missed him racing vintage by about 4 years approximately, My brother Pete and I raced vintage in Canada and the US from 1999 to about 2005,  I think Bruce stopped racing vintage mid 90's there about. Not to mention riding all over the world on motorcycles.  



This is a Honda Africa 750 twin that Bruce owns, probably one of the best bikes ever built for "adventure riding" around the world. He has a friend with an identical one for sale. Anybody want to buy it and join me on a around the world trip some time?



This morning was crate day. However United Airlines gave me a wake up call. A computer informed me that my flight had been cancelled (weather) and I had been re-booked on a flight (that didn't work) and just like hitch hikers guide to the galaxy, said sorry for any inconvenience that this may cause! So I spent the morning on the phone and finally got it sorted out when I eventually got through to a very helpful United Airlines Personnel. I did manage to get the bike crated in the afternoon.

Ty Hibbard of Victory BMW was so helpful (again) in getting me set up crating my bike as were everyone at Victory BMW. Thank you guys so much. If anybody reading this is in Phoenix Arizona (Chandler actually) riding your bike make sure you drop in here, great bike shop.



!Muy Triste! As my bike is going into it's new BMW crate to come home in. It's going to Caprara Brothers in Watertown N Y where I will pick it up in a week or so in the crate and bring it back to snowy old Ottawa!                 

                                                                  A Snowy old Ottawa.

Ah,  home Sweet Home, We did It! After a long but really uneventful fight home it's a sudden dose of reality. Ottawa is hit with it's first real snow storm of the winter and I timed it perfectly (not). But in all honesty (Elaine) It feels great to be home in every aspect. I'll have to get my cross country ski's out.  Sorry Bruce I'm not going to sell up and move to Phoenix.

Last but not least will be picking up my bike, it's on the road as I write this in a truck. Somewhere in the good old U.S of A. Where to next?

Well I think that's about it, I hope you enjoyed this blog. I enjoyed writing it. I look forward to seeing you soon!

Thanks Chris.



Cabo Pulmo back to La Paz Jan 27th. Another crazy riding adventure



Nice smooth sandy roads


Thursday morning after going for an incredible 2 hour snorkel on the corral reef, I decided as I had completely not planned to, head it for La Paz for a comfy night in a motel and to be able to do some stuff in town before catching the ferry to Topolabampo at 3pm the next day. So I packed up and was ready to go by about 1. I decided to follow the coastal road instead of the main highway I used to get here from La Paz. My National Geographic "adventure" map showed what I thought looked like a  pretty good coastal road. The ride initially was breathtakingly beautiful, the riding was fun on smooth sandy roads, not too deep, the bike just floated underneath me all I had to do was make small corrections and let the bike do what it wanted. I was in heaven realizing this was my last day riding on off road  "secondary" trails. Oh but how quickly can things go wrong!



Only 10 km through those mountains as per my map as the crow flies , no problem except it turned out it was about 40K following the curvy mountain road.




All happy not knowing what's ahead. I was in heaven, "what a great idea to have this last fling off the main road, I'm such a good rider, this stuffs getting easy!" I think!!!!! Pretty smug looking.




So driving up into the mountains the nice smooth road slowly got worse and worse. I kept pushing forward because I thought it must get better soon, it didn't, it just got worse and worse until I hit a steep, rutty, pot holes everywhere section and boom on my rear end again, erghhhgrgh!!!!!!!! I waited for about 15 minutes for somebody to come by (I did not see a single light anywhere for the next 3 hours or so) and help me lift my monster (it takes about an hour to do it myself) Nobody. Off with all the luggage, get the bike up, pulled my back out, unladen I still could not get the bike to the top of the hill, back wheel just spun whether or not I was on or off the bike. Trail is too narrow to turn it around so I slipped it backwards brakes on, sliding down to the bottom of the hill about 50 feet and then was able to get a good enough run up at the hill to the top. Then drag all me gear to the top and re pack the bike. Feeling a little hungry now.




 


There's the top of the hill. I've got myself into this position and now that I don't know whether to go back or go forward. If I go back I will have to camp at the side of the road which I don't want to, if I can get through the mountains a nice warm hotel room awaits me. I think at this time it can't be very far to cross so I push on. The road just went higher and higher and got worse and worse. It ended up a single track trail that followed the cliff edge, I've really got myself into the proverbial. There was not a single light in any of the valleys. I felt very alone. No problems with banditos just problems avec moi! My HID head lights thank god worked great (I angled the whole pod down and used both beams of course so the road ahead was like day time for about 30 - 40 feet which at 5 kms hour is ok) because now it was pitch I mean pitch black, no moon. The trail had really steep sections going up that ended up with a corner at the top so you had to have enough speed to get up but no too much speed for the corner. The trail had huge boulders and steep downhill technical declines, It was really really tough. At one point I thought I will camp but there was nowhere to camp, I would have to pitch my tent in the middle of the trail on top off rocks and boulders on a incline because it was cliff on the one side and a big drop off on the other side. Crazy. It took everything I knew to get through this, I could not make a mistake, I honestly drew on my motorcycle racing, downhill biking and my martial arts experiences, all played a vital part in getting through this little nightmare. It's funny though because at a base level I was having a lot of fun?????Nothing like a challenge I guess

After two hours of intense concentration I saw lights of a town. Coming down the mountain the trail slowly turned back into a road of sorts. Keeping my concentration and being vigilant not to let my guard down suddenly I was engulfed in bright spot lights that completely out shone my HID head lights. A surprise military check point. Surrounded by soldiers I told them (in Spanish) I came from Cabo Pulmo, through the mountain pass and was on my way to La Paz. They all started smiling when they realized I came through the mountains and kept asking me if I came through the mountain pass. Once they actually believed me that I did they all started laughing! Even the "interrogator" smiled although he was trying to maintain a serious demeanor.

I reached the highway, back onto sweet sweet pavement, this kind of riding really makes you appreciate pavement even if it's straight! I felt absolutely elated, I made it! At about 30mph completely naturally I stood up on the pegs my hands came off the handle bars and raised high in the air, I yelled in joy as if I had just won a world championship!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Then I thought better sit down quick before my joy is ended by a pothole!!!!!!!!!

Two hours later I was checked into a good motel and sitting down at my favorite restaurant in La Paz eating assada and drinking Pacifico beer, hmmm happiness.



23rd Jan La Paz to Cabo Pulmo

 The ride to Cabo Pulmo National State Marine park was easy, at the Tropic of Cancer sign I stopped and it was the strangest thing, on the north side it was freezing cold (as seen in this picture).



But on the southern side of the sign, you are now in the tropics and it was uncomfortably hot! Honest. 



I spent three whole glorious days on this beach (Los Abollitos I think), There was an English couple also (we made a feast one night that was delicious) and that was it, no one else, luvely. No toilets, no water, nada, Paul would have loved it, just like Algonquin park but just a little different. During the day I raced around some great roads on my unladen bike, yee ha (Steve would have loved that). I snorkeled on amazing corral reefs right off shore literally 10 feet from the beach off the RHS of the beach, saw a 3' turtle which was nice to see because they are having a tough time surviving man apparently. Tons off cool fish that seem to come up to you to check you out. Had great walks along the shore/cliff line and of course read, slept and sun bathed. I was so happy I made the decision to do this rather than rush back up the Peninsular.



This guy thought my orange tent was the mother ship, it would not stop trying to get in. I got this great pic of it on a desert flower.



Really amazing rock formations, I have lots of volcanic origin rocks for April from this beach.




Time at La Paz Sat/Sun Jan 22/23

My plan is to cross over to mainland Mexico from La Paz but the "immigration" office is closed till Monday so I decided to stay in La Paz and relax a few days. I want to spend the last of my time in South Baja on a beach, if I continue round the peninsula and back up I won't have time for the beach. I figure catching the ferry to Popalabampa on the main land (say that 100 times fast, the locals pronounce in some strange tongue, not Spanish, that only they can understand) will give me two extra days for the beach.
It's a very funny thing, you literally just drive into Baja, through a border crossing, the officials don't stop you and ask any questions, you just drive through, you have to stop and pictures are taken only. But going to the mainland is completely different, passports, temporary vehicle importation documents, tourist card document etc. It's a pain in the you no what and very time consuming going to one office for this, one office for that, paying at a bank returning with receipts, lining up at counters and waiting for it all to be processed, it's almost not worth it. It's like Europe in the 70's, worse. But once I got started I figured I may as well go through with it all. Beaches are a powerful motivator, yes.

Anyway had a very relaxing weekend stayed  at a nice clean, quite and secure motel. I just walked a lot (the walking reminded me of my Europe trip in the 70's and Buenos Aires trips with April. Watched life go by, read etc etc and ate great assada and tortillas of course. Good time.



I watched some guys skatecrashing I think it's called, Looked painful, I don't know why people do this sort of crazy sport!  I think I'll stick to motorcycles and D/Hill bikes, much safer.



Bahia Conception a La Paz

January 21st. Got up early (despite the previous night with Ed and Sandra) and watched the sun come up. I have become used to packing and people coming up and chatting. At the beginning I got upset because I was in a rush to get going but now I like it very much, chatting with all kinds of different people. So now I plan two to three hours to pack up camp. After chatting and saying goodbye to Ed I got going at my new record of 10:30. I filled up both tanks so I could make it to La Paz without stopping for gas. The beginning of the ride was through mountains, spectacular views and really twisty flowing corners with the occasional hairpin turn, great I loved it, wished I was on a sport bike (sorry no pics vid only). Stopped at a pretty town called Loretto for lunch, met some friendly bikers riding Baja, pretty cool mix of bikes, Beemers, Triumph, Japanese I think anyway nice to see other bikes.  The rest of the ride was straight and boring,  By the time I got to La paz it was night and my bottom (aka bum) was killing me. Gotta do something about this seat before the long days in the saddle heading back up to Phoenix

Beautiful mountain scenery from Bahia to La Paz



La Paz Malicon (pedestrian walk) Tourists and locals alike stroll down the Malicon enjoying the sunshine, kids play, families relax, teens eye each other up and there is generally a friendly relaxed atmosphere. There´s some sort of religious parade going on in the background. 



Sunset at La Paz from the Malicon



San Ignacio to Mulage and Bahia Conception

After leaving beautiful San Ignacio the road travels back into the desert back to the Sea of Cortez. Most of Baja is desert with oasis areas´s. I´m afraid this portion is rather boring, no whales, no crashes, no disasters. I stopped at a town called Santa Rosalia which is kinda cool because its actually an old mining town the French built so the architecture is not Spanish/Mexican but French has a completely different feel. Unfortunately I thought the bread wasn´t any better but to be fair I only ate one kind of bun from the "French"  boulangerie. Sorry no pics maybe latter. It was a very busy and bustling town.


                                                    I know lets have Mexican for lunch!

Arrived in Mulage and met these two girls from somewhere in France near Belgium, they are "couch surfing" or "coach surfing" as they called it. Amazing they don't pay for accommodation they ask if they can stay on peoples "couches"via the web site and in return they are listed on the web site for people to stay with them. They are traveling I think they said for 3 months. 



Mulege is a very pretty sea side fishing town (about half way down the peninsula on the east coast) that was devastated by a direct hit from a hurricane two years ago. You could see evidence of it everywhere but  also it`s amazing how quickly the town is recovering. Apparently the water was over the top of the trees in the picture and you could see the hurricane circling overhead.

               I know what I fancy lets have Mexican food for supper! (this is camerones tacos hmmm)

At Mulage I realized I am running out of time, It's funny a month in the saddle sounds like a lot of time but it´s really not. I thought I must keep the hammer down to complete my loosely planned trip which was to go around Baja, get to the  bottom and come up the other side (west side). But after some soul searching I thought what do I really want to do, I know I dint want to rush, I know I dont like sitting in the saddle on a boring road all day long (if it´s straight I hate it) and really don't care if I see another mission, I do know I love camping being on the beach, swimming, meeting people and chatting, I love to ride my bike unladen off road also I want to kayak on Conception Bay and I want to  spend a little time in La Paz ( big town in south Baja East coast plus I want to snorkel at Punta Pulmo which has fabulous  reefs that are accessible from shore and great camping. It´s funny I felt compelled to "complete the journey" I don't know why. But I have decided not to, I am going to fail on this great journey of circumnavigating the Baja Peninsular! I have decided instead to enjoy the last week and half and do what I love. Tough decision!!!!! thank god I figured it out. 



Just thought every one would like to see another picture of my bike! ha ha.What a beaut. That belly pan has done it´s job over and over, I´m sure a rock would have gone through the cases by now. I met a guy who had to abandon a similar adventure as mine in Baja on his Kawasaki KLR650 because of a rock that went through the engine cases draining all the oil, he said it happened of course in the middle of nowhere. So far other than a few scratches the only thing that needs replacing is the front rim.



Everywhere you go you all ways end up with a buddy while you are wherever in Mexico, helps with me missing my hounds.



So off to Conception bay it is to meet new friends, snorkel, kayaking, and go clamming!



We are feeling OK, my new buddy(s) Edwardo and Sandra who after I had an exciting day kayaking and clamming I made a clam nosh they called Chris K nosh. It was OK they liked it (or so they say) and I ate it. Sandra also cooked up some sea bass which was excellent. Eat drink and be merry! Ed is a old Californian fisherman who now lives on the beach in his palapa (he said when he was a kid he wanted to live like Robinson Crusoe) well guess what. He and Sandra are awesome if you are there at playa burro look them up, say Chris the crazy Canadian sent you! Later we went for a midnight cruise in his panga boat, I know we shouldn't have but Ed got very serious used all the electronics and "captained" the boat very expertly.



"Edwardo and Sandra" business partners, hmmm Sandra has a very gouchi palapa house down the beach. Sometimes you get really good info travelling,  Sandra suggested to take the ferry over to mainland from La Paz and then it`s a straight boring hi-way back up to the border but will save me I think two days driving. This gives me more time doing what I want to, great.



Captain Edwardos, Robinson Crusoe's Palapa



Bahia de L.A. to San Ignacio

                 Well actually Guerrero Negro, what a day! This was just the beginning. I stopped, pulled of the highway to take a pic, no problems when driving away all felt fine except I wasn't going forward I was going down! the bike is resting on it's belly pan.



BAD TIMES!



Bahia de Los Angeles really doesn't want me to leave. Off with all the bags, get out the trusty C.T.C camping shovel and start digging, made a ramp out but when I tried to ride it up it just got worse even deeper. Oh $&%*^. So I came up with idea to push the bike on it's side (It's used to it now) The back wheel popped out and left a huge hole. I filled the hole with rocks, embedded rocks in a straight line back up to the road and picked up the bike, good to go, just as I was about to try two trucks stopped full of construction workers, these guys (Mexican specifically) always stop to help. And poof we're back on the road, hand shakes big smiles off they go. Re pack the bike second time today and off I go.



My reaction.



Where's a Harley when you need it

So I stopped at Guerro Negro for a late lunch and pick up supplies all's great when I'm about 20k out of Gurrero Negro when I come across this guy up to his running boards off the road, (you can see the tracks). I stopped to help, a pick up truck stops, we try pulling out no luck, P/U truck leaves to get thicker rope, trusty shovel comes out again, a bunch of other guys stop, party atmosphere, there's kids, moms, and guys, everyone thinks this is jolly good fun except me and the mums. Another guy stops and gets stuck too, absolutely hilarious, he, they, don't give two hoots it's all just a party. At about this time I notice I have a flat front tire (Flat B strikes again) oh for frickings sake, the guy who got his truck stuck (second one) says to me "don't worry we help". Pick up truck arrives back but the thicker rope he brought just snaps also. A 4x4 truck stops with chain (now the party's really starting) I dig out a channel with my trusty shovel (I don't why these guys don't carry shovels and tow rope) and hook up the 4x4 and we're back on the road.

These guys wont have me working at the side of the road as the suns going down and without much input or protest from me they load my bike and all my stuff which is now just lying around on the side of the road off my bike and off we go back to Guerro Negro 20 k. I hate going backwards but we end up at a Pemex Gas station with bright Lights. I ride the back of the pick up straddling my bike doing about a 100 + K thinking I too old for this, I must be fricking nuts, ah maybe I am!

After a few cervesa's and chips provided by the guy 2nd from right the front tires repaired, most of the people at the fiesta had left by this time, this is the last group standing of partyista's. I gave the guy with the transport pick up truck $10. for gas. Lots of invites and istruction to go to a club for more beers but I'm done, closest motel for this kid. The party is over.

Scum Bucket Motel Two. It's in a sleazy area so I brought the bike inside. The people running the motel I don't think had had a customer for a while, they seemed a little surprised at the sight of me but once they got over their shock they were really nice. They brought me two carne (god knows what meat) sandwiches and two (more) beers, the sandwiches were delicious I was starving and I settled into a pleasant evening watching very good boxing which is huge here. For some reason the Mexican participant always won?

Next day arrive at the oasis town of San Ignacio, beautiful with a traditional colonial centre square

The church at the end of the square, Mision de San Ignacio.



Next day, the view from my room, this was the first purpose built possada inn in San Ignacio, walled garden with the rooms built inside the walls all facing the garden.. The dogs were very nice but the black one was always too busy for me. The owner was sitting with a friend (cant really see her in this pic) signing Mexican folk songs, very pretty woke me up from a nap.


Next day I ride to Laguna San Ignacio to go whale watching. The eco tour sales girl said that there was no group going by organized vehicle but there was a group driving on there own to the Laguna. I said fine I'll ride there. She would not take my money, said if you get there pay then, ha a challenge. About half way there I saw a truck (2 wheel drive SUV) being pulled out by a tow truck. The road was ok really fun riding but this area was a sand trap about 100 metres long and deep, no choice had to go through or go back, got my weight as far back as possible (ass over the back carrier) and just gave er in first, I got through it but I guess they didn't continue because I was the only person on the boat!



Hey where's the whales!



Oh here's one, you can see his/her mouth and eye, the whale is on it's side and I am stroking and scratching the side of it's "chin" WOW



All of a sudden I felt somebody was looking at me, we looked at each other for maybe 30 seconds just like this, the whale was looking right at me eye to eye about three feet away! Unbelievable Muy Suerte, very lucky the captain said first whale to come up to a boat this year and it happened twice.

After this the whale "flipped" upside down under the boat, I could see the pectoral fins in front of the boat and the underside  of the chin and the whale scratched it's belly on the underside of the boat for a minute or so. The boat was rocking side to side ( this was a 20 to 30 ton 12 to 15 metre whale) it was rocking the boat about like a cork, the captain was going back and forth from gunnel to gunnel to try to "balance" the boat, I joined him and he didn't stop me!

This was one of the most amazing experiences of my life.